Come on down to The Price is Right 2010, now with even more classic pricing games and new stages for a fun gameplay experience! Participate in Contestants'Row and play new favorites like Safe Crackers, Clock Game, and many more! Spin the Big Wheel for a chance at fabulous prizes and a huge payoff in the Showcase! The Price Is Right ends with the Showcase, the final showdown between the two players who have traveled from the audience to Contestant's Row, up onstage, through a pricing game, and past the Big.

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So you’re addicted to the wickedly awesome Facebook Game App based on The Price Is Right?

(And if you want to skip this and just go to the Original & World-Famous Price Is Right Actual Retail Price List on Facebook Game Application Guide… this is it! There’s more to the game besides the price list bidding. But so many people have asked for the showcase showdown pricing – so I’ve deciced to create a new list/chart just for the Showcases… If you want the Price Is Right Actual SHOWCASE SHOWDOWN Price List of Facebook Game App… just click the link! Enjoy 🙂

Here’s some tips an my own special The Price Is Right secret strategies that helped me get to Level 43 and counting (at the time of this post) 😉 Enjoy!:

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When guessing Actual Retail Price (ARP), never guess easy numbers like $500, $800,. $1200 etc. Always add $2 to these types of guesses. Why? Because you are playing your opponents as much as you are playing the game itself. Many opponents will also bet the same value (especially newbies) so by putting $2 more, you’re ahead of the others who might have bet the same value. Why not $1? Because some of the smarter ones will have figured out this strategy already and bet $1001 or $901, etc. So by doing $702, $1202 etc., you’ll beat them too!
Generally speaking, there seems to be a correlation with the length of description and ARP. The longer the item description (including the mentioning of a specific company, model, line, etc.) the more $$$ the ARP is.
Computers increase in value based on the GB description. If it’s a 20 GB hard drive, it won’t be a $1000+ computer. But a 350 GB computer or a 1 TB (1 TeraByte = 1000 GigaBytes) will be much pricier
Tugboat and TugTrain prizes tend to have a higher ARP than you would normally guess
Small single items are also a higher ARP than you would normally guess (ie. small wall clock could be $2500
Always look at your opponent’s first spin results. If there’s someone with $1, and 90 cents, and $85 cents and you have 65 cents, you’ll have to spin again even though the odds are against you. It’s a certain loss otherwise. But if opponents have 65 cents, 40 cents, 45 cents, 50 cents, 5 cents etc after first spin, I’d keep the 65 cents since there will probably be a lot of 2nd spinners who will bust over a dollar or get a low value overal (ie. if they spun a 5 cent or 10 cent first spin).

When on Contestant’s Row (CR), your bidding position is of utmost importance.
- If in 1st position, you have the least likely chance of winning because 3 bidders can screw you by going $1 more than you or planning bids around you. It’s a hard spot to be in – so be aware of this
  - I usually bet a number than seems certain and hard for others to bid around. For example, bidding $800 will easily result in someone bidding $801 if they think the ARP is around that. So throw them off by bidding $823. Your opponents may think you know the ARP already OR they will not likely bet $824… they’ll probably bet $900 or $950. It gives you a bit of a wider margin to win.
- If in 2nd position, I assess the first bid and my own gut on what the ARP might be. If the first best is close in my opinion, I’ll be $40-$100 more. The reason I wouldn’t go $1 more is that the 3rd position player can then screw you over the way you did the 1st position player. By creating a larger gap between bids you’re making it harder for the next bidders (3 and 4) to bid
  - If the first bidder is way off the mark, I try to create as much gap in the bids as possible and adopt the earlier strategy. For example. I think the item is worth $1000, but the first bidder bid $350. I might bid $934.
- If in 3rd position, all I have to worry about is the 4th position. In this case, I’ll try to bid close to ARP (in my opinion), but confusing to the 4th bidder. So if first bid is $600 and second is $850, I might bid $771 if I think the ARP is around there. I’m hoping that the 4th bidder will bid $851 (or $1 more than the highest bid). That keeps my bid safe from getting screwed over. If I think the value is higher, I’d take a chance and bid higher by a larger margin to discourage the 4th bidder from bidding $1 more than me. So my bid might be $1389 or something.
- If in 4th position, you have the best advantage. Look for gaps in bidding and fill those (assuming you believe the ARP is in that range. So let’s say 1st is $450, 2nd is $550, and 3rd is $950. If I thought the ARP was under $1000, I’d do $1 over the $550 bid since I would dominate a ARP from $551 to $949 (or a $400 range). IF I felt it was over $1000, I’d make the bid $1001 obviously.
Showcase Showdown – Final 2: Always bet a complicated number like $23,413 (just in case your opponent bets $23,000 or $23,100 or $23,250 etc.). A car and a trip are almost always over $30,000. Lowest prices (ie. around $15,000 +) usually have a motorcycle, ATV, or small dingy/bo